Forgotten People of Northern Kenya - Marsabit, Isiolo

Marsabit lies at the heart of the ancestral lands of the Boorana people. it is the last bit of civilization in the vast desert of northern Kenya. The people of Marsabit are a colorful ethnic mix of Rendille, Boorana and Gabra. The road between Marsabit and Isiolo is rough (you will need a 4x4) and has been plagued by bandits in the past. You will probably need to be a party of at least two vehicles and be totally self-sufficient with water, food and petrol.

The lush and fertile oasis of Marsabit has made this small town a major draw for the many and varied peoples of Northern Kenya. The streets are always a lively mix of Boorana-Oromo, as well as Gabra-Oromo and Rendille tribes' people, Somalis and rest of Oromo's. When the passing parade of Tourists, over Landers and backpackers on the road north are added to the mix, the result is a colorful cornucopia of Kenya at its best...

How many times, since the death of the leaders in a plane crash in Marsabit, did the President or his senior aides visit the region? Has Marsabit Airstrip, whose location was the key cause of the crash, been revamped, re-located or rehabilitated? It is plausible that the airport in Wajir is now a better quality and will serve the northern region well. Why don’t we have an international airport in Moyale — one of the most important gateways to landlocked Ethiopia?

The unsafe state of many of Kenya's rural airstrips has been highlighted the Marsabit plane tragedy that claimed 14 lives. For few, if any, of the safety recommendations made after a previous deadly plane crash – at Busia in 2003 – have been implemented, investigations have revealed.And the families and friends of the Marsabit victims are now asking themselves: If those recommendations had been put into effect, would our loved ones be alive today? In focus now are the 145 small unmanned airstrips, like Marsabit and others, scattered throughout the countryside. Previously the responsibility of the Kenya Airports Authority on these so-called Class 4 airstrips was put under direct Government control and district officers were made responsible for their upkeep.

One result was that no air traffic control or navaids was available at Marsabit to help guide in the pilots of the plane carrying Government officials including MPs on a mission to bring peace to warring clans in the area. The landing strip at Marsabit was unmanned and the pilots were attempting to land in heavy mist without guidance and help from ATC or navigation aids. They aborted their first attempt to land, circled the town for a second try, and then in the enveloping fog flew straight into a hillside some three kilometers from the strip.

Burst into flames

The plane burst into flames and in spite of heroic rescue attempts by local people, 14 of the 17 people on board lost their lives. The victims included six MPs, an Anglican bishop, a police chief and other senior government officials.

The town of Marsabit sits within a ring of four hills and a mountain, Mt Marsabit, and landing there is never easy.

One pilot who has flown from Nairobi to Marsabit many times said the town's topography made landing difficult even in best of weather.

Information from the Kenya Meteorology Department covering last Monday indicated landing would be difficult. It reported significant rains and mist pervading the town from its tropical forest.

When pilots fly to unmanned airstrips they are left to use their own judgments.

Marsabit offers permanent barriers in hills and the fog that make landings a nightmare.

Realities and operating ground: experience from Northern Kenya

Northern Kenya population lives below the poverty line. Infrastructure is very poor; people live on average 25 km. from water sources and health clinics. The environment is extremely risky; last year a livestock disease killed 60% of the herd. Research on health, education and income sources is quite inadequate.

ISIOLO

This is where the tarmac road ends and the frontier town marks the start of Kenya's north-eastern area of desert scrub, mountains and Lake Turkana. This is the last place you will find a bank or petrol (except for at the Samburu Lodge), before Maralal or Marsabit. This is a good place to buy food before going north and it has a market for fruit and veg. The area north is home to the Samburu, Rendille, Boran and Turkana people. The town has a large Somali population after ex-Somali soldiers were resettled here after the First World War.

Geographically, the town is at strategic position, being less than 300-km from the capital city.

The town, which is also some few kilometres from the foot of Mt Kenya, also borders the economically vibrant Meru and Nanyuki towns.

The famous Great Northern Road passes through Isiolo, linking the country with other African states like Ethiopia and Sudan and Egypt.

Successive regimes in Kenya promised to tarmac the road up to Moyale Town. However, the promise is yet to be honoured.

It is quite sad and tragic to note that, even the roads within the town centre are in pathetic and sorry state.

The current government had a noble idea of upgrading the Isiolo airstrip. The merits of this need not to be overemphasised. But the sad part of it is that the plan has been shelved. Something is wrong somewhere. The town has a county council that receives millions of shillings from tourists who visit the local game reserves.

This is in addition to what the council receives from the central government. The irony is that the impact of the huge vote head of the council is not being felt in the entire district.

The district was once the host of a national school-Garbatulla High. The school today is just a pale shadow of its former self. The national status is long gone.

Where are the leaders, young and old, to propel the plans for the revival and the rejuvenation of the school? Who masterminded the death of the only giant institution in the entire northern region? History will judge harshly mostly those who were in power when the school was buried.

It is clear that there has been a disconnect between the successive regimes and the people of Isiolo.

I can confidently describe it as lack of political will to support the district. "

"Isiolo, Marsabit, Moyale"

The region has one of the highest concentration of diverse ethnic groups with pastoralist backgrounds. It is arid and semi-arid and has a long history of neglect and underdevelopment. Despite the problems, the loud silence from the region, especially at this time when political drums are beating, is astounding.

If the people of Isiolo, Marsabit and Moyale were united, then they could tell off all the political aspirants who only jet in when they need votes and never return until after five years.

How many times, since the death of the leaders in a plane crash in Marsabit, did the President or his senior aides visit the region? Has Marsabit Airstrip, whose location was the key cause of the crash, been revamped, re-located or rehabilitated?

The average Kenyan living outside the region has little clue about it because it has been shrouded in isolation for so long that it behaves like another distant country separate from the ‘Kenya we know’. For instance, most Kenyans have heard of Koobi Fora — where fossils linked to early human evolution were found.

But how many know that it is in Marsabit? If Koobi Fora is one of the possible cradles of humankind, then the first humans may have lived in Marsabit before they migrated to other parts of the world. That is debatable, but what is true is that Marsabit is endowed with cultural, palaeontological and natural resources that could be used to promote the economy and livelihood of the residents.

A large part of the region does not have and it takes about two days on the back of a lorry to get to Moyale yet one can fly to London in eight hours. There are no proper schools. Garba Tulla, which was the only national school in the region, is decaying. Isiolo, Marsabit and Moyale hospitals do not offer quality medical care.

Universities being awarded to different corners are a distant dream to a region without polytechnics. There was a long-term plan to build Dabasso Wabera Polytechnic in Marsabit. Of course, it never took off.

It is a scandal that Upper Eastern is still part of Eastern Province. The people of the three districts deserve a province so that meaningful development plans can be mooted and executed. This should be the basic demand.

Other demands should be for better schools, colleges and infrastructure. Upper Eastern needs a blueprint for development. But the truth is that nobody cares about the region save for local communities.