A Feast Fit For Kings
Amar Bahadur Shrestha
October 12, 2008
´Brahmins are spoiled due to indulgence, and Newars, due to too much of feasting´. So goes an old Nepali proverb. How far it is true is not for this writer to judge, but as far as Newars (the original inhabitants of Kathmandu, capital of Nepal) are concerned, it is a fact that they are still said to look for the slightest excuse to have a feast (´Bhoj´).
The Newars are a very sociable lot, more so within their own ethnic social structure. In addition, due to inter marriage within their own small ethnic population, Newars have large families, for every marriage means an addition of more relatives. Therefore, even the smallest of feasts in a Newar family could mean anywhere between fifty to sixty invitees.
And there are quite many such feasts throughout any given year, the exception being when a family has been bereaved in a particular year. In such a case, the bereaved family and its closest relatives stay aloof from any sort of festivities for a year´s time. However, every year, on the fourteenth day of Bhadra (August 30th or thereabouts), all those who have suffered a loss in the preceding year participate in a unique Newari festival called, ´Gai Jatra´.
The smaller kids of a bereaved family, dressed in funny costumes, take part in a carnival like procession consisting of many other participants from other similarly afflicted families. In fact, this festival signals the beginning of the festive season. Many more festivals follow in quick succession till Baisakh (mid April), the start of one more Nepali New Year. It should be mentioned here that Newars have their own New Year, which is on the day of ´Maha Puja´, a day before ´Bhai Tika´ during the Dashain festival (the greatest festival of the country lasting ten days).
Anyway, feasting starts from ´Gai Jatra´ itself. And, for Newars, continues throughout the year during each and every Newari festival. Events, like birth, marriage, Barthaman (a kind of baptism of boys to the Hindu faith), Gufa and Bel Bihwa (coming of age ceremony for girls), and so on are also occasions that call for feasts.
A typical Newari feast is known as ´Lapate Bhoj´. This terminology deserves attention in today´s times because although many feasts now are planned for convenience and arranged as buffets, some Newari families prefer to have it in the traditional way. So to better prepare the guests, the hosts make it a point to mention that they will be hosting a ´Lapate Bhoj´. In which case, the guest has to understand that he will have to come more comfortably dressed (which is essential if you have to sit cross legged for a long time), and must be prepared to give more time (as he will not be able to get up until the eldest, and most probably, slowest eating guest, has risen, following, as it is, an elaborate and time consuming feast).
Before entering the room for the feast, the guests take off their shoes. There is a lot of joking and jesting as the guests settle down comfortably on the long, narrow ´sukuls´ (straw mats that can be rolled up). A ´lapate´ (literally meaning leaf plate), made from leaves of the Sal tree, is placed before each guest along with a ´pala´ (small clay bowl). At regular intervals along the rows are kept ´karuas´ (snout nosed brass vessels containing drinking water).
The service starts from the eldest guest. First, two hand fulls of ´baji´ (beaten rice) are served. In Nepal there are different types of ´baji´, the ones served in Newari feasts are the tastier types (those made in Kathmandu), which are whiter, larger and flatter than the others. The usual curries served are, ´gaida gudi´ (made of different lentils), ´hariyo saag´ (green spinach) and ´alu tama´ (potatoes and bamboo shoots).
´Achaar´ (pickles), which can be of two kinds, are served next. ´alu kerau´ (a spicy concoction of potatoes, green peas, small brown peas and radish) and ´tamatar ko achaar´ (made of ripe tomatoes) are the most popular. It must be mentioned that the ´aachars´ can be really spicy and hot to the uninitiated.
Then comes the dish everyone is waiting expectantly for, the meat curry. Either mutton or buff (buffalo meat), with lots of gravy, is served (traditionally, Newari feasts serve buff, but in recent times, mutton is noticed to be more preferred). This, the serving of meat, is a time consuming affair, since, at every stop, the server has to make sure that meat pieces are served according to choice. And different guests have different choices, obviously. Some take quite a while finalizing their choice pieces which only goes to prove the fact that the Newars are connoisseurs of meat. As soon as it is served, the guests start eating.
The ´Bhoj´ is on.
As they eat, all the while bantering with each other, more dishes continue to be served and these are the tasty morsels of different varieties of meat. A ´Newari Bhoj´ has from half a dozen to a dozen type of such delicious morsels. ´Hakuchoila´ (grounded meat broiled and spiced up), ´bhuttan´ (deep fried intestine and other stomach parts), ´senla mu´ (steamed and sautéed liver), ´swanpuka´ (lungs filled and fried – see recipe below) and ´mainh´ (fried pieces of tongue) are particularly delicious. As are other edible parts of the head, whether of a buffalo or a goat. It is customary to serve various head parts according to guest seniority. Therefore, the right eye, cooked well, is served to the eldest, the left eye to the next oldest, and so on.
While these tit bits are being offered, somebody will be busy pouring ´aila´ (home made fiery liquor made from barley or rice) into the ´palas´ (small clay bowls). The serving of the ´aila´ is an art by itself. The fiery liquor is poured by an expert hand (often, female), from an equally special container, the ´anti´, a brass vessel with a long narrow snout. The ´aila´ is poured from quite a height and the liquor flows in a long graceful gush into the small ´palas´. Often, the standard of a feast is judged by the quality of the liquor served. The best ´aila´ is said to burst into a bluish flame at the touch of a spark. Raw carrot, radish, cucumber, onion and tomato slices with soaked peas come next. This is known as ´chuse muse´ and is a salad of sorts.
It is to be expected that the general mood becomes much more jovial after the first ´palas´ have been downed. Appetites also become better, and second servings are generous. Now the ´aila´ server is the busiest person around, and the mood of the feast is, yes, very festive.
As can be imagined, a ´Newari Bhoj´, particularly the ´Lapate Bhoj´, is not one to be taken lightly. A lot of preparation goes into the making of one and the proper conduct of a ´Newari Bhoj´ is a backbreaking affair, as service will have to be continuous and efficient. Therefore if invited to one, guests shouldn´t mind if they have to give a lot of their time. No doubt it will be highly enjoyable, to say the least.
Signaling the final stages of the ´Bhoj´, small leaf bowls with sweet and sour ´lapsi paun´ is served. This is actually the dish that will help in the digestion of all the rich food consumed during the magnificent ´Bhoj´. It is made of sour ´lapsi´ which is said to have very important medicinal properties, particularly concerning indigestion and flatulence.
Finally, a hand full of ´baji´ is served once more. Curd and sugar is next. The curd specially is an important part of a ´Newari Bhoj´, the Newars being particularly well known for making delicious curds as can be confirmed by tasting Bhaktapur curd (known as ´juju dhau´). ´jerry´, and often, ´rasbhari´ (sweet meats) are also served simultaneously. These constitute the ´sweet dish´.
After everybody has finished, three servers go around to each guest, one holding a ´bata´ (large, circular and shallow copper vessels), one holding a ´karua´ of water and the third, a towel. Each guest washes his hands in the ´bata´ while water is being poured from the ´karua´.
The end of the feast, (maybe to the relief of those feeling cramps at having to sit cross legged for a long time), is confirmed by the eldest guest rising up from his seat. The others follow dutifully.
It can be said that the ´Newar Bhoj´ is no ordinary feast. It is quite scientific in nature. The food is well balanced, providing plenty of carbohydrates and proteins and less of fats. Liquor keeps the appetite going, thus making the host happy at his elaborately prepared feast being appreciated. ´Lapsi Pau´ makes sure no one suffers after-feast pains, and of course there is no washing up to be done as the ´lapates´ and the ´palas´ are disposable!
Recipe for a typical Newari Delicacy
How To Make ´Swanpuka´ (lungs filled and fried)
Ingredients:
1 pair of lungs of lamb 1 tsp turmeric powder
3 cups gram flour 1 tsp cumin powder
2 tsp salt 3 cups water
1 tsp red chilli powder 2 eggs
tsp fresh ground ginger 3 tbsp oil (for mixture)
tsp fresh ground garlic Oil for frying
Check that the lungs are fresh and confirm that it is not punctured, by blowing into it. Clean the lungs, and put into it one tablespoonful of oil patting it all over while doing so. Then turn it upside down to make sure that all the remaining blood and gas is expelled.
The filling:
Mix all the ingredients (except eggs), and to this, add water gradually until you have a smooth mixture. Now beat the eggs into the mixture. Pour this mixture into the lungs very slowly. Press down firmly with your fingers as the lungs fill up to the trachea. In this way, pour in all of the mixture. Now blow into the lungs a couple of times. You will know that it is fully filled when it stands hard and there is a lightening of color. Add more mixture as needed.
Next, fold the top of the trachea and tie it up with a string so that the mixture does not flow out.
Boil the filled lungs. Cut into small pieces (about 2 inches square and ½ inch thick). Heat oil in a pan. Fry the small pieces of filled lungs until well done.
Voila! ´Swanpuka´, one of the exotic dishes of the Newars is ready for your eating pleasure.
The Newars are a very sociable lot, more so within their own ethnic social structure. In addition, due to inter marriage within their own small ethnic population, Newars have large families, for every marriage means an addition of more relatives. Therefore, even the smallest of feasts in a Newar family could mean anywhere between fifty to sixty invitees.
And there are quite many such feasts throughout any given year, the exception being when a family has been bereaved in a particular year. In such a case, the bereaved family and its closest relatives stay aloof from any sort of festivities for a year´s time. However, every year, on the fourteenth day of Bhadra (August 30th or thereabouts), all those who have suffered a loss in the preceding year participate in a unique Newari festival called, ´Gai Jatra´.
The smaller kids of a bereaved family, dressed in funny costumes, take part in a carnival like procession consisting of many other participants from other similarly afflicted families. In fact, this festival signals the beginning of the festive season. Many more festivals follow in quick succession till Baisakh (mid April), the start of one more Nepali New Year. It should be mentioned here that Newars have their own New Year, which is on the day of ´Maha Puja´, a day before ´Bhai Tika´ during the Dashain festival (the greatest festival of the country lasting ten days).
Anyway, feasting starts from ´Gai Jatra´ itself. And, for Newars, continues throughout the year during each and every Newari festival. Events, like birth, marriage, Barthaman (a kind of baptism of boys to the Hindu faith), Gufa and Bel Bihwa (coming of age ceremony for girls), and so on are also occasions that call for feasts.
A typical Newari feast is known as ´Lapate Bhoj´. This terminology deserves attention in today´s times because although many feasts now are planned for convenience and arranged as buffets, some Newari families prefer to have it in the traditional way. So to better prepare the guests, the hosts make it a point to mention that they will be hosting a ´Lapate Bhoj´. In which case, the guest has to understand that he will have to come more comfortably dressed (which is essential if you have to sit cross legged for a long time), and must be prepared to give more time (as he will not be able to get up until the eldest, and most probably, slowest eating guest, has risen, following, as it is, an elaborate and time consuming feast).
Before entering the room for the feast, the guests take off their shoes. There is a lot of joking and jesting as the guests settle down comfortably on the long, narrow ´sukuls´ (straw mats that can be rolled up). A ´lapate´ (literally meaning leaf plate), made from leaves of the Sal tree, is placed before each guest along with a ´pala´ (small clay bowl). At regular intervals along the rows are kept ´karuas´ (snout nosed brass vessels containing drinking water).
The service starts from the eldest guest. First, two hand fulls of ´baji´ (beaten rice) are served. In Nepal there are different types of ´baji´, the ones served in Newari feasts are the tastier types (those made in Kathmandu), which are whiter, larger and flatter than the others. The usual curries served are, ´gaida gudi´ (made of different lentils), ´hariyo saag´ (green spinach) and ´alu tama´ (potatoes and bamboo shoots).
´Achaar´ (pickles), which can be of two kinds, are served next. ´alu kerau´ (a spicy concoction of potatoes, green peas, small brown peas and radish) and ´tamatar ko achaar´ (made of ripe tomatoes) are the most popular. It must be mentioned that the ´aachars´ can be really spicy and hot to the uninitiated.
Then comes the dish everyone is waiting expectantly for, the meat curry. Either mutton or buff (buffalo meat), with lots of gravy, is served (traditionally, Newari feasts serve buff, but in recent times, mutton is noticed to be more preferred). This, the serving of meat, is a time consuming affair, since, at every stop, the server has to make sure that meat pieces are served according to choice. And different guests have different choices, obviously. Some take quite a while finalizing their choice pieces which only goes to prove the fact that the Newars are connoisseurs of meat. As soon as it is served, the guests start eating.
The ´Bhoj´ is on.
As they eat, all the while bantering with each other, more dishes continue to be served and these are the tasty morsels of different varieties of meat. A ´Newari Bhoj´ has from half a dozen to a dozen type of such delicious morsels. ´Hakuchoila´ (grounded meat broiled and spiced up), ´bhuttan´ (deep fried intestine and other stomach parts), ´senla mu´ (steamed and sautéed liver), ´swanpuka´ (lungs filled and fried – see recipe below) and ´mainh´ (fried pieces of tongue) are particularly delicious. As are other edible parts of the head, whether of a buffalo or a goat. It is customary to serve various head parts according to guest seniority. Therefore, the right eye, cooked well, is served to the eldest, the left eye to the next oldest, and so on.
While these tit bits are being offered, somebody will be busy pouring ´aila´ (home made fiery liquor made from barley or rice) into the ´palas´ (small clay bowls). The serving of the ´aila´ is an art by itself. The fiery liquor is poured by an expert hand (often, female), from an equally special container, the ´anti´, a brass vessel with a long narrow snout. The ´aila´ is poured from quite a height and the liquor flows in a long graceful gush into the small ´palas´. Often, the standard of a feast is judged by the quality of the liquor served. The best ´aila´ is said to burst into a bluish flame at the touch of a spark. Raw carrot, radish, cucumber, onion and tomato slices with soaked peas come next. This is known as ´chuse muse´ and is a salad of sorts.
It is to be expected that the general mood becomes much more jovial after the first ´palas´ have been downed. Appetites also become better, and second servings are generous. Now the ´aila´ server is the busiest person around, and the mood of the feast is, yes, very festive.
As can be imagined, a ´Newari Bhoj´, particularly the ´Lapate Bhoj´, is not one to be taken lightly. A lot of preparation goes into the making of one and the proper conduct of a ´Newari Bhoj´ is a backbreaking affair, as service will have to be continuous and efficient. Therefore if invited to one, guests shouldn´t mind if they have to give a lot of their time. No doubt it will be highly enjoyable, to say the least.
Signaling the final stages of the ´Bhoj´, small leaf bowls with sweet and sour ´lapsi paun´ is served. This is actually the dish that will help in the digestion of all the rich food consumed during the magnificent ´Bhoj´. It is made of sour ´lapsi´ which is said to have very important medicinal properties, particularly concerning indigestion and flatulence.
Finally, a hand full of ´baji´ is served once more. Curd and sugar is next. The curd specially is an important part of a ´Newari Bhoj´, the Newars being particularly well known for making delicious curds as can be confirmed by tasting Bhaktapur curd (known as ´juju dhau´). ´jerry´, and often, ´rasbhari´ (sweet meats) are also served simultaneously. These constitute the ´sweet dish´.
After everybody has finished, three servers go around to each guest, one holding a ´bata´ (large, circular and shallow copper vessels), one holding a ´karua´ of water and the third, a towel. Each guest washes his hands in the ´bata´ while water is being poured from the ´karua´.
The end of the feast, (maybe to the relief of those feeling cramps at having to sit cross legged for a long time), is confirmed by the eldest guest rising up from his seat. The others follow dutifully.
It can be said that the ´Newar Bhoj´ is no ordinary feast. It is quite scientific in nature. The food is well balanced, providing plenty of carbohydrates and proteins and less of fats. Liquor keeps the appetite going, thus making the host happy at his elaborately prepared feast being appreciated. ´Lapsi Pau´ makes sure no one suffers after-feast pains, and of course there is no washing up to be done as the ´lapates´ and the ´palas´ are disposable!
Recipe for a typical Newari Delicacy
How To Make ´Swanpuka´ (lungs filled and fried)
Ingredients:
1 pair of lungs of lamb 1 tsp turmeric powder
3 cups gram flour 1 tsp cumin powder
2 tsp salt 3 cups water
1 tsp red chilli powder 2 eggs
tsp fresh ground ginger 3 tbsp oil (for mixture)
tsp fresh ground garlic Oil for frying
Check that the lungs are fresh and confirm that it is not punctured, by blowing into it. Clean the lungs, and put into it one tablespoonful of oil patting it all over while doing so. Then turn it upside down to make sure that all the remaining blood and gas is expelled.
The filling:
Mix all the ingredients (except eggs), and to this, add water gradually until you have a smooth mixture. Now beat the eggs into the mixture. Pour this mixture into the lungs very slowly. Press down firmly with your fingers as the lungs fill up to the trachea. In this way, pour in all of the mixture. Now blow into the lungs a couple of times. You will know that it is fully filled when it stands hard and there is a lightening of color. Add more mixture as needed.
Next, fold the top of the trachea and tie it up with a string so that the mixture does not flow out.
Boil the filled lungs. Cut into small pieces (about 2 inches square and ½ inch thick). Heat oil in a pan. Fry the small pieces of filled lungs until well done.
Voila! ´Swanpuka´, one of the exotic dishes of the Newars is ready for your eating pleasure.